Ifixit Mac Mini 2012 Dual Hard Drive Kit


  1. Ifixit Mac Mini 2012 Dual Hard Drive Kit -
  2. Mac Mini 2012 Ssd Install
  3. Mac Mini Replace Hard Drive

Kit Contents: SATA Hard Drive Cable - connect your new drive to the logic board. Mounting Grommets - soft rubber grommets protect and dampen vibrations from your new hard drive. Mounting Screws - four set screws to safely secure your new drive. Logic Board Removal Tool - specialized for the Mini's unique logic board. All the hardware needed to install a second hard drive to your 2011 or 2012 Mac mini. Mac mini Late 2018 Memory Maxxer RAM Upgrade Kit. More memory for better performance. Upgrade your Mac mini 2018, all necessary tools are included in the kit, feasible for DIY beginners thanks to the detailed instructions. Made by iFixit, the Mac Mini Dual Hard Drive Kit contains everything you’ll need to open the gadget’s aluminum panel and fill that empty space with a fully functional secondary storage. Set consists of a proprietary SATA cable, mounting grommets, mounting screws, a tool for removing the Mac Mini’s logic board, a spudger and a 26-piece but. Mac mini Dual Drive Kit. All the hardware needed to a second hard drive to your 2011 or 2012 Mac mini. 제품 보기 1개 중 1 - 1개. Refreshed in October 2012, the Mac mini Model A1347 externally looks the same as its predecessor with Thunderbolt, Ethernet, and Firewire '800' ports, but the four USB ports. Mac mini Hard Drive Kits. Replacement parts for your Mac mini model to fix your broken computer! IFixit has you covered with parts, tools, and free repair guides. Repair with confidence! All of our replacement parts are tested to rigorous standards and backed by our industry-leading warranty.

Ifixit Mac Mini 2012 Dual Hard Drive Kit -

Utilisez ce tutoriel pour remplacer le disque dur d'un Mac Mini avec un seul disque dur ou Fusion Drive fin 2014.

Ce tutoriel a été réalisé avec un Mac Mini Fusion Drive. Si votre Mac Mini ne dispose que d'un disque dur, sautez les étapes concernant le SSD PCIe et son connecteur.

Ifixit Mac Mini 2012 Dual Hard Drive Kit
    • Le couvercle inférieur est clipsé sur trois supports de vis.

    • Faites levier, mais pas directement sur les supports de vis.

    Read Me First: I purchased an SSD drive directly from Crucial and, of course, it came uninitialized. After going thru the entire tear down, installing the new drive, and rebuilding the mini, it refused to recognize the new drive. So, of course, I had to re-tear it down, remove the new drive, insert it into an external housing and format it using my Macbook. After that the mini recognized the new drive. A word to the wise: format the new drive before installing it.

    tom - Réponse

    How were you installing the OS? I am planning on booting into a USB drive with a copy of OS High Sierra on it, and I assume I will be able to format my new Samsung SSD using that?

    Simon - Réponse

    On my Samsung EVO 850, mac mini download system automaticly

    Stefan Repac - Réponse

    Pre-formatting is not necessary if you make a USB boot installation drive with macOS installer. During boot up, hold down the option key until the mac boot into the USB, formatting can then be done using disk utility running off the USB drive.

    SBR249 - Réponse

    I had the exact same experience as tom. I installed a brand new 2TB Samsung 850 EVO and it was not recognized by the Mac Mini. I booted from a portable USB drive with a bootable copy of macOS High Sierra but the 850 EVO SSD I had just installed was not shown as an option. I tore down the Mac Mini again, formatted the 850 EVO, rebuilt the Mac Mini, and booted off the same bootable High Sierra USB drive, and sure enough the 850 EVO was recognized.

    maxim - Réponse

    diskutil list

    diskutil erasedisk [filesystem] [drivename] /dev/disk[disk number]

    Paul Rodgers - Réponse

    My drive (Evo 860) was also not initialized. I started in recovery mode and went to disc utility and from there selected the drive. I then was able to use the “erase” function on the drive. I just left the settings as default and as soon as it erased then the drive was ready to go.

    Nathan Cooper - Réponse

    Just completed this upgrade a few days ago, having purchased the 1 TB SSD kit from IFixIt. The kit arrived quickly and the tools and drive worked perfectly. The step by step guide posted here is pretty much flawless, but do pay attention to the specific comments from users on certain steps - they really help. As far as ensuring that the new drive will reboot and install MacOS, I watched 1-2 videos on YouTube about re-installing using the Internet Recovery tool and that worked perfectly. My MacMini is performing WAY better than it used to, for only a $200 upgrade kit and about 3 hours of work, all in. Thanks!

    Joshua Rednik - Réponse

    I’ve had Apple computers since the G3 machines and they have always been snappy.

    Unfortunately this 2014 macmini has always been slow but this upgrade (6 years later) has changed that!

    if you have a late 2014 macmini, do this.

    I used a 860 Samsung.

    Mike Hayes - Réponse

    A quick comment to tell you that at every step, make sure to read the comments and be careful. I managed to do the process fast without any problems, but thanks to the comments that warned me enough on the risky steps.

    Euronymous - Réponse

    • Utilisez l'outil d'ouverture en plastique pour soulever le couvercle inférieur vers le haut du Mac mini.

    I used some wooden toothpicks instead of the opening tool. This worked flawless for me.

    mhomscheidt - Réponse

    • Soulevez et retirez le couvercle inférieur.

    I taped the 'Mac Mini Logic Board Removal Tool' to the flat part of the antenna plate before sealing everything up again. I mean, where else am I supposed to store it without forgetting where it is? I'm pretty sure it won't cause any problems there.

    Richard - Réponse

    Dan Moore -

    I would suggest you wash the underside of the plastic as mine after 3 years was covered in dust.

    John Errington - Réponse

    David Yutzy - Réponse

    • Retirez les vis TR6 suivantes de la plaque d'antenne :

    • Trois vis 4.1 mm

    • Trois vis 1.9 mm

    Had a T7 security screw driver [and didn't want to wait to have the T6 version shipped to me], so I gave it a whirl. I lined up the driver with the screw socket, pressed down a bit to make sure the driver would get enough grip, and slowly [but forcefully] rotated the driver and got these screws out. BE CAUTIOUS not to strip the screws. May not work for everyone.

    KevCoStudios - Réponse

    As TR6 screwdrivers were sold out all over Germany and I wanted to exchange the HDD THIS friday, I took a VERY fine dental milling tip (0,8 mm head diameter) for my proxxon and milled away the little dots in the center of the the TR6 screws. After that I could open the case with a regular T6 screwdriver. All went fine, MM is closed again + working like a charm with it's new SSD. NOTE: For this task I used my loupe glasses (3x) ;)

    Martin Gerner - Réponse

    On the whole screw thing. I just used a tiny dremel drill bit and drilled out the security pin. I hate those screws. I don't see the point in locking the them with those. they should have left the screws alone.

    That Mac Guy - Réponse

    Arroba -

    James Almeida -

    randywardak - Réponse

    I just had success using standard pliers to remove the longer screw posts, and then I used standard needle nose pliers to press down and grip the tiny screws. Please note that this method may/will cause scrapping of the aluminium cover.

    Barrythetech - Réponse

    Northern Tools sells a set of 13 Torx Security Keys for $28.99 that has the TR6 size.

    Gary Craig - Réponse

    On my 2nd drive replacement (swapping out to an SSD this time). Could not find my logic board removal tool. So I made another one from a metal coat hanger. So, here’s my tip, when you put it all back together: the logic board removal tool fits around that small black circle antenna perfectly and you can replace the large black cover over the top snuggly. No rattles or anything.. So, next time: I’m guaranteed to find my logic board removal tool.

    Andy Milne - Réponse

    The three longer screws could be removed with pliers.

    The three shorter once I drilled out with a sharp 3 mm drill.

    First put tape across the ventilation opening and carefully vacuum cleaned before taking of the antenna plate, though.

    Don’t you hate it when the manufacturer does things like this, though??

    ernstcline - Réponse

    My set of drill bits contained a T6H but no TR6 (I don’t know the difference). That worked too without problems

    Claus - Réponse

    I can recommend the Tekprem tools for this. That %#*@ security dimple foiled me until I got these. check Amazon ratings before you buy any tools, a lot of them that come from China are made with cheap pot metal rather than properly hardened alloys and will strip out very quickly. (Don’t ask me how I know this.)

    MrSpiral - Réponse

    I have T6 but not the required TR6, and my order for the bit from Amazon is going to take two weeks. I don’t have the patience to wait so…

    I was able to remove all of the screws but 1 with a pair of needle nose pliers and sheer force of will. The last one wouldn’t come off so I just finally gave up and bent the plate back until the screw broke off. It wasn’t pretty but considering there is a plastic cover over the whole assembly it was something I was willing to live with.

    Note that I can’t get the screws back in with the needlenose, they just don’t turn, so I will await the bit to arrive. In the meantime this computer is purring like a kitten, a whole new lease on life!

    Glen Candlewood - Réponse

    If you have non-security T6 and T7s, carefully drill away the middle of the screw with a very small bit, stopping frequently to vacuum out the filings to see if you’ve done enough. You don’t need to do much, and too much will strip the screw entirely. Then very carefully unscrew using a T6 (you may need a T7). I’ve done it twice and it works.

    bkbkbk - Réponse

    • Ne pas enlever complètement la plaque d'antenne; elle est toujours connecté au Mac mini par un câble d'antenne.

    • Avec les ports Entrées/Sorties en face de vous, retournez la plaque d'antenne vers la droite pour permettre l'accès au connecteur du câble d'antenne.

    • Retirez la vis T6 individuelle de 3.4 mm et la rondelle du câble d'antenne.

    • Veillez à ne pas perdre la rondelle lorsque vous enlevez la vis.

    This is a pain in the arse to get back on. Lock the screw down first when reassembling.

    Jim Allen - Réponse

    No need toremove this. The cable squeezes out of the gap under the case with enough length for the antenna plate to be out of the way.

    cheongi - Réponse

    Not necessary to remove just be careful and don’t stretch the cable.

    peter Tucker - Réponse

    Gray Greensheim - Réponse

    • Utilisez la pointe d'un spudger pour soulever le connecteur d'antenne vers le haut de son support sur la carte Airport.

    Is this really necessary? The antenna is no where near the SSD drive....

    mike - Réponse

    This was the most tricky part for me when remounting the Mac Mini. With my bad eyes, I’ve spent 10 minutes inserting this tiny round antenna plug in the hole. I’ve decided to put the screw back without tighten it too strongly and then it was easier.

    afajner - Réponse

    I have been having wifi issues ever since I changed the drive. I don’t know if this connector is the cause or not.

    Simon - Réponse

    I have been having wifi issues ever since I did this upgrade. Don’t know if it’s this connector or not.

    Simon - Réponse

    Milton - Réponse

    Milton - Réponse

    This is a very fiddly connector. Afajner’s tip is recommended. Make sure the connector is in securely. It will not wiggle or make a ticking sound when pressed when it is seated correctly.

    maxim - Réponse

    I had trouble at this point too. My experience: Loosen the screw a bit and than center the antenna plug over the pin. In my case I heard a click when I plugged it in correctly. Don’t forget to tighten the screw afterwards.

    Matthias - Réponse

    Is this really necessary? The antenna is no where near the SSD drive....

    mike - 06/25/2017

    UP! is it?

    sandro.vezzali - Réponse

    Not strictly necessary for SSD access, no—just allows you to detach the antenna plate and get it safely out of the way. You can leave it in place if you prefer, but be careful to support the antenna plate and make sure the cable doesn’t get strained or yanked accidentally.

    Jeff Suovanen -

    Wenn nur die M.2 gewechselt werden soll, empfehle ich, den Antennenstecker nicht abzuschrauben und den Deckel einfach vorsichtig beiseite zu legen. Es ist dann allemal genug Platz zum Wechsel der M.2.

    Das Ausstecken dieses Steckers ist hier wirklich nicht einfach, da die Anschlüsse winzig und mit bloßem Auge kaum zu erkennen sind. Hat bei mir gut 20 Minuten gedauert, bis ich das Teil wieder drauf hatte. Eine Lupe kann hier wirklich helfen. Auch das vorherige Fixieren mit der Schraube macht es ggfs. etwas einfacher. Der restliche Ausbau/Umbau/Zusamenbau war nach einer knappen halben Stunde erledigt und ist für jeden mit etwas Geduld machbar.

    Des weiteren aufpassen mit der winzigen Schraube, die beim Zusammenbau leicht verkanten kann und dann sehr schnell abreißt.

    Hermann Röttger - Réponse

    In trying to remove the antenna connector pin from its socket on the airport card the socket came away from its location on the airport card completely, together with the cable and connector pin. Rather than replace the airport card (that would have a new socket) and a new connector/pin for the cable, I decided it would be worth trying to solder the connecting pin to the (now exposed) contact points for the socket on the airport card.

    Best time to do this is during the re-build _after_ replacing the hard drive, when the antenna is still unattached to the airport card. After the re-build (with no further problems encountered) it was quite easy to solder the connector pin with attached remains of the socket to the airport card's contact points - there's enough space for easy solder access without other sensitive components nearby.

    I had thought that my Mac Mini's wireless connectivity might be affected, but it wasn't.

    Now very happy with a fast SSD machine with wireless connectivity.

    David Paul - Réponse

    this was the most fiddly part of the reassembly operation for me too. Old eyes, despite good lighting, led me to try this multiple times before I finally got that satisfying click. I am surprised that people find securing the screw first to be helpful, as I didn’t have nearly enough room to move the cable around if I tried that. Also, while it is theoretically possible to do this entire operation without removing the cable, I would never chance it… It’s way too easy to damage something by yanking on the plate. I had a lot of peace of mind when I was able to set the entire antenna plate aside.

    MrSpiral - Réponse

    After I reassembling, my bluetooth no longer works. The antenna connector is definitely seated properly as I heard the click, and it was fully secured when I tried to wiggle the wire. Did anyone else have this problem?

    Sean Dickson - Réponse

    Update: when I disconnected the antenna cable, OSX retained my keyboard and mouse in the bluetooth device list, but it had apparently forgotten they were paired. I bought a usb keyboard and usb mouse to figure this out. Deleted the devices from the bluetooth list, rediscovered them, and now it’s working fine.

    Sean Dickson -

    • Retirez délicatement le câble d'antenne depuis l'interstice entre l'alimentation et le boîtier.

    Use tab that the screw goes through to align the connecter more easily.

    Rob Speight - Réponse

  1. To save time and effort, note that you don’t need to disconnect the antenna cable from the radio module. Just carefully lay the antenna plate / cable assembly over to the side and perform the SSD switch.

    clinton - Réponse

    • Retirez les deux vis T6 12 mm du ventilateur.

    • Desserrez la vis T6 27 mm.

    That 27mm screw should be very loose, since it attaches the motherboard to the case. When you’re trying to remove the motherboard, if the AC connection side of the board is not moving back easily, you need to make sure this screw is fully backed out from the case.

    There’s no danger in removing it completely.

    marklfarley - Réponse

    I suggest removing the 27 mm tool, otherwise Step 23 will not work.

    Arvin Bhatnagar - Réponse

    Actually you don’t need to remove 27mm from the fan. I was able to tilt a little when I take the logic board out in Step 23. I also didn’t take the fan cable too. When you pull the logic board out, put the fan on the back of logic board as you pull it out.

    Kenneth Z - Réponse

    • Le connecteur du ventilateur est bloqué sous le bord du ventilateur, et ne peut pas être déconnecté tant que le ventilateur n'est pas déplacé.

    • Ne retirez pas le ventilateur complètement.

    • Soulevez le ventilateur vers le haut pour libérer la vis captive de son logement sur la carte.

    • Mettez de coté le ventilateur du SSD, jusqu'à ce que vous puissiez avoir accès facilement au connecteur du ventilateur.

    • Utilisez la pointe d'une spatule pour soulever vers le haut le connecteur du ventilateur.

    When I did this the entire socket came off the logic board. What do I do now?

    Tyler - Réponse

    I broke off the connector. More photos of the connector may help. I lifted it but the pins broke off. It took me awhile to find points on the board to solder the wires to. I got 3 of 4 wires and the fan operates.

    Beryl Sachs - Réponse

    I would suggest NOT using the point end of the Spudger but the wide end. Place behind connector (wire side) and twist gently.

    If I may be so bold as to also suggest that a torch be used for those small components/connections.

    TisMise - Réponse

    Thank you, @TisMise! I placed the wide end of the spudger on the wire end of the connector and wiggled it up. The connector comes lose up - NOT out front in direction of the wires. Hope this helps. ?

    CK3 -

    I also broke the socket off. I don’t have the ability to solder little [email protected]$* like that. I’m sad.

    Daniel Rackerby - Réponse

    Kris Chu - Réponse

    Stefania Izzo - Réponse

    You don’t need to disconnect the fan cable to take out the logic board. When you slip the logic board out, put the the fan behind the logic board as you push it out.

    Kenneth Z - Réponse

    Peter Harrison - Réponse

    That’s it, I used a needle! After reading so much people broke it, I rejected this step instruction and put a needle between the socket and the connector. It came out fine. Good that I also fix clothes, other than computers. :)

    Seff - Réponse

    • Retirer la vis torx de 2,6 mm maintenant le support du connecteur du câble SATA.

    This screw is very short, when I tried to put it back, the beginning of its thread got dusted and now it's impossible to use it to fix the bracket in place. It should be 3.5 mm instead of 2.6. Nevertheless, the SATA connector is firmly attached to the logical board withou screw+bracket and my mac mini is working nicely.

    mario.estolano - Réponse

    My mini came with only a PCIe SSD on it. When I got to this point, I discovered that because it was never shipped with a hard drive, there was no securing screw, no cable connector bracket, no cable connector, and no hardware for securing the drive. Fortunately, there is still a hole in the logic board where the SATA cable is supposed to pass through, and the logic board does have the appropriate connector. if you buy an OEM SATA cable, you can actually secure the SSD in place using a little bit of electricians tape. Because it has no moving parts, it’s not going to rattle itself loose. I am more concerned about not having a cover for the place where the SATA cable clips to the logic board, but I put a little electricians tape over it to hold it in place and I will see how that works.

    MrSpiral - Réponse

    If you are adding a sata drive to a pcie mac mini 2014 only you wont have this part - as per MrSpiral’s pos. Using a 2012 additional drive kit will give you the sata connector to connect the drive to the logic board but not the securing screw and plate (next step) it would be good to be able to get this part. if anyone has any links that would be appreciated.

    Edward Chandler - Réponse

    • Retirer le support du connecteur du câble SATA.

    This procedure works to add a SATA hard drive/SSD to a PCIe SSD-only Mac Mini using iFixit's Mac Mini Dual Drive Kit. The one thing that's missing from the kit is SATA cable connector bracket (and screw). This is not the end of the world: the cable is a snug fit in the logic board socket, so the bracket is only a safety measure.

    Dominic Dunlop - Réponse

    Its shown in the 2nd picture but is very easy to skip over and I almost lost mine because I did exactly that. While I thing the connector would stay without it The little cover that hold the connector down would be a bad thing to have floating around in the machine.

    jeh.dominic - Réponse

    • Utilisez l'extrémité plate de la spatule (spudger) pour soulever le connecteur du câble SATA hors de sa prise sur la carte mère.

    Last time I did this I got the tool under the socket and it broke off. This caused the power light not to work. I don’t use the IR function so it wasn’t an issue. When putting this connector back on, make sure it seats well as many have has issues with the the power light not working. You will read more of this on the comments at the bottom

    Greg Bouten - Réponse

    • Utilisez la pointe de la spatule (spudger) pour déconnecter le câble du capteur IR de sa prise en le soulevant.

    Be careful in this step. I am known for my gentle hands and the little cable flew out regardless. Was able to reinsert with no damage but was terrifying!

    Liliana Chavez - Réponse

    What if the entire connector came off? Can this be glued again? How can I fix this?? :(

    Cai - Réponse

    @caicruzz The socket will have to be re-soldered to the board. It’s not terribly difficult, but requires some specialized equipment and I wouldn’t recommend it as a DIY on any machine you care about, at least not without a lot of practice first. I’d suggest reaching out to a repair shop that handles board-level repairs. Sorry for the frustration! Accidents happen sometimes; fortunately this one is very fixable.

    Jeff Suovanen -

    This happened to me as well. Can I simply tape it in place? I’m never going to use the IR sensor anyway.

    Joseph Stillwell - Réponse

    Is you made mini working without connecting the Broken IR bracket? I did this the other day and I can live without the IR and LED light. I could solder it, but rather not if the machine works without it

    John Kokkas -

    I did this. So mad at myself. Will my Mini still work if I left it as is. I understand that I won’t have IR and the LED light won’t work, but I can live without it

    John Kokkas - Réponse

    I broke it too. Really annoying as I do use (or, used to) the IR sensor).

    Daniel Rackerby - Réponse

    Of course I broke mine off… Be careful when you put the cable in! The Mini is working without it but no IR and LED on the front.

    bigsee - Réponse

    Use a fine tip set of tweesers and slip the end under th wires and gently pry up.

    juggledad - Réponse

    Bruno Villers - Réponse

    I would recommend to go on till step 24, till the motherboard is pulled out slightly, then come back to this step. The space is very tight between the connector and the hard disk bracket, which makes it difficult to slide the spudger underneath the wires. It is much easier when the motherboard is slightly out and have more space for the tool. I followed @juggledad’s comment, and used a pair of fine tip tweezers to pry the connector out.

    Xu YANG - Réponse

    Pierre-alexandre98880 - Réponse

    You may also use a bowed paper clip and slide it under all wires and gently pry it open

    Gero Alexius - Réponse

    Because of the warnings in the comments I decided to use another tool. Instead of using a spudger, I carefully used the Flathead 1 bit from the iFixit Mako precision bit set in this step. That worked well for me.

    Sicco Pier van Gosliga - Réponse

    YES! I followed recommendation to go on till step 24, as Xu Yang suggested. Worked easy for me. Thank you all!!!

    Efrain De Luna - Réponse

    Thanks for the recommendation to wait to remove this one, often find the comments on these guides so useful.

    Ahmad - Réponse

    That’s it, I used a needle! After reading so much people broke it, I rejected this step instruction and put a needle between the socket and the connector. It came out fine. Good that I also fix clothes, other than computers. :)

    Seff - Réponse

    • Retirez les deux vis T6 de 2.6 mm qui fixent la fixation du câble du SSD PCIe.

    Steps 18-20 only apply if you are removing a fusion drive. Otherwise skip to step 21 during removal.

    Stephen Reaser - Réponse

    • Retirez la fixation du câble du SSD PCIe.

    • Retirez de sa prise le connecteur PCIe du SSD.

    Is the PCIe connector present and usable on the mid-range Mac mini? I don't need the ~$300 fusion drive but would like the comfort of knowing that I can add an extra SSD in the future.

    Michael Johnson - Réponse

    No, only present in Mac Minis configured with a fusion drive.

    rasmus - Réponse

    Not true. I am looking @ the inside of a mac mini _not_ configured with a fusion drive, and the connector is present.

    Samuel Bostick - Réponse

    The PCIe connector is only present if the computer came factory configured with any sort of flash storage (SSD or fusion drive). Otherwise, the cable, the connector, the bracket, and the 2 screws are all missing. The fusion drive is essentially a disk drive plus a small capacity SSD blade which the OS recognizes as a combined drive. Fortunately, if you didn’t have an SSD before, you can easily buy the connector cable part on the internet. The bracket and screws are not necessary.

    SBR249 - Réponse

    Is it correct that the “iFixit Mac mini Unibody SSD Upgrade Bundle” with a 500-Gbyte Crucial MX500 SSD does not require a PCIe connector? This is for a late 2014 Mac Mini with a failed HDD (order number MGEM2*/A). I think it is correct, as the connectors on the Crucial SSD look just like those on the HDD, but just checking…

    David Newman - Réponse

    • Retirez l'unique vis T6 de 16 mm qui fixe la carte mère.

    Keith S Coker - Réponse

    • Pour retirer la carte mère, les deux barres cylindriques de l'outil de démontage du Mac Mini doivent être insérées dans les deux trous entourés en rouge. N'insérez aucun autre outil dans ces trous, sous risque d'endommager la carte mère.

    • Insérez l'outil de démontage de la carte mère du Mac Mini (Mac Mini Logic Board Removal Tool) dans les trous entourés en rouge. Assurez-vous que les extrémités soient en contact avec le boîtier sous la carte mère avant de procéder.

    Instead of the removal tool it is also possible to use two metal pins with 2,5mm diameter.

    Yuuki Galaxy - Réponse

    A T8 screw driver worked best for me on the 4 hard drive screws.

    rparks89 - Réponse

    amrgardner -

    dloftis -

    aiino - Réponse

    You don’t need a tool for this step, just turn the Mac Mini around 180º and push the vent for the fan with your thumbs. The board will push straight out. That’s what I did.

    Daniel De Ciantis - Réponse

    Simple thumb-pushing didn’t work for me, so I bought the tool.

    Insert the MMLBRtool. How far? There’s an initial lip you might catch about halfway down, but wiggle beyond the lip to a definite bottoming out, and equal lengths of the tool on each side of the elbows as shown.

    As you lever the logic board per the illustrations, you’ll notice the black bezel begin to separate on one side or the other. Use a prying tool or guitar pick to help separate the bezel from the body on top and bottom, and the logic board will slide out easily with gentle prying.

    On my Mini, the bezel’s retaining clips (best seen in Step 25) were very snug to the body, preventing the thumb-push. Using the pick released them from the body.

    s gardner - Réponse

    You definitely don’t need the tool. Just get two screwdrivers small enough to fit in the holes and push them both at the same time. I have about a million tiny torx screwdirvers that came with iphone screen replacement kits. I’m sure you do too.

    Mark2000 - Réponse

    This is exactly what I used, thanks for the tip. Worked a charm once I leveraged both small screwdrivers back with even pressure just like you can with the removal tool.

    Ahmad -

    I used an old coat hanger. I just cut the end off with some pliers and then bent it into a similar shape as the tool. The biggest thing is making sure both sides are about the same length. Also, don’t put your thumbs on the black plastic part on the back of the mini because you won’t be able to pull the logic board out that way.

    Nathan Cooper - Réponse

    As I didn't have the Mac mini Logic Board removal tool, I used two small Alien tools, similar to the Mac mini Logic Board removal tool.

    marcoscaj - Réponse

    I paid the five bucks and I am really not sorry I did. Yes, I probably could’ve made my own or fiddled it out with a couple of screwdrivers, but without having done it before, knowing how much leverage to apply and in which direction was made much easier by using a proper tool.

    MrSpiral - Réponse

    I used 2 screw drivers as suggested, and pulled towards me with my palms against the sides of the case. Even with a lot of muscle, I failed. The solution was to get a helper on the opposite side of the table. Using the fingers of both hands along the circular opening in the case, the helper pulled as I pulled on the screwdrivers. They should be kept vertical, so as to not damage the board. There is no way the procedure pictured in step 23 would have worked for me. My board must have needed at least 20 pounds of force to move

    mail - Réponse

    Totally didn’t need to buy the tool they recommended. Just use two tiny screwdrivers (the same ones you are already using to take apart your mac. Pull at the same time toward you and the whole board popped out in a few seconds.

    Scott Provost - Réponse

    etape la plus délicate du tuto, j’ai pour ma part fait levier avec la partie plate de la spatule en plastique entre le berceau du disque dur et la carte mère juste à coté du connecteur ir, la facade s’est légerement décollée, j’ai changé de place toujours avec la même méthode et la facade a continué de sortir, j’ai ensuite pu aider avec les trous initialement prévus (j’ai utilisé 2 tournevis torx très fin) et ensuite c’est sorti sans souci

    Olivier VH - Réponse

    I had the tool and it worked perfectly. However, it did not push easily out. It came out hard and nearly went flying. Luckily nothing was damaged but just FYI, mine was super tight.

    LESLIE DOW - Réponse

    You totally don’t need the one-use-only “logic board removal tool”, that’s silly. If you push against the heatsink with both thumbs (being careful not to make the board flex) and wiggle it out it’ll eventually give and slide out.

    Gary Diamond - Réponse

    • Tirez avec précaution l'outil vers la carte E/S. La carte mère et l'ensemble de la carte E/S devraient légèrement glisser hors du boîtier extérieur.

    • Cessez de pousser lorsque l'outil de démontage touche l'ouverture dans le boîtier arrière.

    • Retirez l'outil de démontage de la carte mère du Mac Mini.

    I had some trouble getting mine started here. If your logic board seems stuck, try pushing the removal tool on both sides near the bottom (vs the top like the photos show) with your index fingers, holding the case with your ring and pinky fingers so that your hands are completely free of the back of the computer (the side with the ports). This worked for me. Otherwise, this guide made the process smooth!

    moorejeffery - Réponse

    I had the same issue until I read this comment. Worked as explained. Thanks !!

    marcstonge060698 -

    The removal tool fits into sockets below the board, just 'lean' the tool over and the logic board will ease out. When refitting the logic board make sure the tabs around the I/O shield slip inside the shell and press home firmly. If the fixing screw does not thread into it's hole, the board is not fully home.

    Malcolm Norwood - Réponse

    Rick Allen -

    Make sure you do *not* have your thumbs on the black plastic I/O shield while attempting this step!

    Stephen Reaser - Réponse

    I was able to push the logic board out, with a little bit of stress and patience, without the specified tool. Rather I used two paper clips, larger than average, and being very gentle to get the initial nudge. I then finished it off using only my fingers, as the paper clips were not strong enough and would have bended. Doable, but probably easier with the tool.

    mt - Réponse

    Even with the tool - it takes more force than you think. There are clips on both sides of the board. Be aware of that when putting it back.

    Jim Allen -

    I used 2 mini flathead screwdrivers with the same thickness as the holes with the heads aligned straight up and down. They will fit into little sockets attached to the case below the board. The side with the power cord came out much easier than the side with the headphone jack, so I removed the tools after a small gap was created and pushed semi-hard on the logic board with a broken spudger (a screwdriver would have worked, too) right in the elbow curve shown to the left of the screw in step 14, and the whole thing slid right out.

    unixmonkey1 - Réponse

    I saw a video where a guy just used a coat hanger to make his own tool. Good to know in case you've already started taking it apart and haven't already purchased the tool. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hgEBPlz4...

    James Almeida - Réponse

    The coat hanger trick worked flawlessly for me. Very easy.

    Jochen -

    May be its me, but I had a right issue with this, I then noticed the screw I loosened in step 10 was bending over. I removed the screw completely, logic board came out, and the metal pillar on the underneath of the board where said screw went in was bent. When I put it all back together afterwards after changing the drive, that long screw was bend, on straightening everything up, the pillar snapped off the logic board. Everything tightened up and its booted up fine. It might just me not following the instructions properly though

    steve - Réponse

    Same here. The screw has to be backed out further than I thought. This should maybe be clearer.

    marklfarley -

    For me the screw loosened in step 10 came out with the fan. it 'should' be a captive screw meaning it doesn't stay in when the fan comes out

    Bill Pennock - Réponse

    I had 2 complete sets of allen wrenches, one metric and one standard and found one each that fit the holes perfectly. With those I was able to find the 'pry spots' that are on the base of the case very easily and a slight nudge moved the board. really worked EXCELLENTLY

    Bill Pennock - Réponse

    My logic board was hung up on the left side with the plastic retainer or the two grounding tabs not giving up the ghost. There is no good picture of this on this procedure. If you go the the heat sink replacement procedure you can see a pretty good bit of it below the presenter’s right thumb in the opening pic and in a larger pic at step 27. Not that the logic board assembly can move much while seated I was able to shift (ever so slightly) the black plastic backside to the right and the board finally unlatched and came out. I was so worried that I was going to over force it and break something, you know, like the logic board. Not sure if I have a solution other than don’t force it. If it seems hard and one side seems to have a screw or other some such locking device stop forcing it and try shifting the logic board to the side opposite were it is catching.

    Eric Jorgensen - Réponse

    I had an issue during reassembly where the AC in socket was just offset and would not line up correctly. I inserted the power cord (unplugged from wall) as I did the final push and everything finally lined up right.

    Austin McGuire - Réponse

    One thing about sliding the assembly board in, i.e. when you are doing the steps backwards, is that there is squishy pad on left and clip on the righ (when viewing mac mini from bottom) if you carefully observe and then it becomes easy to get the assembly in or out if you think about it.

    Trushar - Réponse

    Though I’m sure the tool would work really well, we were able to trouble shoot this with an old microwave oven tray. We clipped the pieces and they were strong and small enough to help remove the logic tray.

    Kuldip Kainth - Réponse

    This step seems like it would be easier with a lot of thin tools like iFixit’s Jimmy being used to release the clips holding the IO panel to the case. It will slide apart with brute force, but until you realize what’s holding it shut, it feels like more force than it reasonable.

    Patrick Friedel - Réponse

    As I didn't have the Mac mini Logic Board removal tool, I used two small Alien tools, similar to the Mac mini Logic Board removal tool.

    marcoscaj - Réponse

    No clips or screwdrivers. I used my barehands over the air tunnels, that was very quick.

    I’m not sure how safe it is but worked just fine for me.

    Antonio Cuamatzi - Réponse

    This was very daunting going in (I had flashbacks of iPhone 4 screen replacements), but turned out to be mostly a breeze. Despite the amount of steps everything inside is very modular and fastened with a minimum number of screws. Logic board module slid right out with very slight pressure on the air vents. Most difficult part was getting the DC connector out and the side clips of the logic board module back in. Much to my surprise, I had it all done in 25 mins. Excellent guide.

    Mitch Russell - Réponse

    I used a single mini/ Jewelers philips screw driver #0 that fit perfectly into the hole and he socket at the base. A gentle “lean in” on each hole loosened the board, ready to slide out.

    Torsten Borchers - Réponse

    • Tirez le connecteur du câble d'alimentation tout droit hors de sa prise sur la carte mère.

    When reassembling, I made the mistake of pushing the logic board all the way in before trying to reattach the DC-In cable connector. It is much easier to reattach the connector with the logic board pushed in just short of final seating.

    Saqib Qazi - Réponse

    Jean-Marie Sengelen -

    Excellent tip, thank you! I would suggest to @sam that this tip be added to the main steps so that others are more likely to see it. Saved me a lot of potential difficulty!

    Ian Davies -

    very small needle-nose pliers help, when reassembling.

    allanschwartz - Réponse

    This is very tricky and to get it off requires a fair bit of (considered) force. Putting it back on I also found a little difficult until I realized it seats slightly lower than you might anticipate. The connector isn’t flush with the top of the motherboard.

    Rob Speight - Réponse

    I agree with the comment above. When you’re putting everything back together, take time to see the connector properly before you push the logic board all the way in. It saves a lot of hassle.

    MrSpiral - Réponse

    I could not get my big fingers in to grip the wires. I used a small flat bladed screwdriver against the tiny ridge on the top of the connector. I pried against the board.

    mail - Réponse

    Use some tweezers to help work out each side as you pull with your fingers.

    Scott Provost - Réponse

    I pushed down on all the wires against the black plastic frame beneath to secure the wires tight. This allows you to then pull the logic board from the front until the connector pops out.

    Julian Robbins - Réponse

    Pour faciliter l’extraction de cette nappe de fil j’ai fait une boucle autour de celle-ci avec un lien fait d’une fine bande de plastique noir muni en son centre d’un petit fil de cuivre pour la solidité, on trouve ce genre de liens au moment du déballage de matériel électronique ou ils servent à tenir les câbles enroulés dans de petit sacs plastique. Une fois enroulé autour de la nappe il suffit de tirer sur cette attache ce qui permet de tirer sur tout les fils de la nappe en même temps et ainsi d’éviter de tirer uniquement sur quelques fils.

    Patrick Ponsard - Réponse

    • Faites glisser avec précaution l'ensemble de la carte mère hors du Mac Mini, en tenant compte des câbles susceptibles de rester accrochés.

    When sliding the logic board assembly back in later, mind the tabs, especially those at each end.

    Richard - Réponse

    When sliding the logic board back in, also be careful and make sure the rubber “sock” on the logic board wraps around the AC-in socket on the power supply.

    Anton - Réponse

    If you can’t get the logic board assembly back in so that it is flush (as it was before you did your surgery on the machine) then I would pay attention to two things: 1) the “sock.” Make sure it is back in place in the right way. I wish I could tell you which way that is but because there is no picture I had to guess and I can’t remember what my guess was now. 2) the retaining clip in step 26. I was unable to properly seat the logic board back into the machine so that it was flush UNTIL I fooled around with the clip and, I GUESS, put it in properly this time. After I did that I was able to properly push the logic board back into place.

    Christopher Todd - Réponse

    These comments just reinforce the fact that iFixit should include reassembly instructions! Just saying to reverse the procedure is not adequate. Reassembly often has unique issues that are not encountered during disassembly.

    kevs - Réponse

    Unless it was seated perfectly when the machine was first put together, the “sock” is likely to come off the logic board assembly when you pop the logic board out. To help reassemble, I have this advice:

    1. The sock has two parts, a stiffer rectangle part and a softer oval part with ridges. The oval part goes towards the outside (back) of the board assembly (where all the receptacles are for the external connections); the rectangle goes towards the inside of the machine.

    2. The rectangle has a stiff, rectangular “magnet-like” piece on one side: that’s the bottom. The top has a slight indentation that fits directly under a “clip” piece on the logic board. That clip is pretty much the only thing holding the sock to the board.

    3. The entire sock does not really seat strongly into the logic board, it’s sort of a gravity fit. So don’t look for places to jam things in: just lay the sock in gently and hook it under the clip and just make sure the oval aligns properly around the socket where the AC cord fits in.

    daniel.brotsky - Réponse

    • La prise de courant est sécurisée avec un petit clip de fixation métallique.

    • Utilisez une pincette ou vos doigts pour retirer la pince de la prise de courant pour l'enlever du Mac Mini.

    • Lorsque vous remplacez le clip, enfoncez-le jusqu'à ce qu'il s'arrête. Il devrait être sécurisé, même s'il n'y a pas de clic sonore.

    Be careful with this seemingly easy step. A few weeks after following this guide to replace my hard drive I noticed that something inside the Mac mini was loose and moving around. I was very annoyed but decided to open it again to have a look and it turned out the be the retaining clip.

    I think I damaged it a little bit and it's not holding into place firmly like it is supposed to anymore. I wonder if I can remove it completely in case it happens again.

    Franck Thomas - Réponse

    This re-install of the clip was surprisingly pesky, I agree. The AC-in socket wanted to sit too far towards the edge of the case, so the retaining clip couldn't be slipped on far enough to close fully around it. I had to push the AC socket to the left while sliding the clip to the right until the wings were really securely closed.

    Jon Scott - Réponse

    I fully agree with the pesky nature of this clip. During my reinstall I noticed that the logic board assembly would not go back in flush with the metal case. Nothing I did changed that. I had to pull out the logic board assembly again and for some reason I decided to futz with the clip. I think I must have re-seated it a little bit better because I was then able to push the assembly back into place and make it flush again. This pin is a PITA!

    Christopher Todd - Réponse

    I ageee. When it popped loose I thought I broke it. My retaining clip disappeared but that plug is very tight.. it’s not budging. Take the time to make sure it’s aligned properly - there are little indents in the top and bottom of the case. You’ll know it’s right if you don’t have to fight it.

    Jim Allen - Réponse

    I don’t understand why this retaining clip is necessary. The AC-in “latch” is positioned by the grove in the case, and quite tight. The power supply is keyed in the back, and attached with the (step 29) screw. I can’t see the retaining clip doing anything, so I will leave it out.

    allanschwartz - Réponse

    I left mine out as well. Like you, I just can’t see how it is necessary unless perhaps you take your mini on the go and it could be moved around a lot. If the mini is just going to sit on a desk, i don’t see any way that the plug comes out of place.

    Nathan Cooper -

    After completing this guide and reassembling I picked up my Mac Mini to put it back on my desk and noticed something rattling around. I can only think it was this part. Worth checking its firmly in position before going too far with reassembling.

    Gareth Little - Réponse

    This was the most uncertain part of the process for me. Coming out was easy, but in reinstalling it didn’t offer me that satisfying click or settled feel. When it and the AC socket looked and felt firm and stable, I called it good enough and judged, like others, that the clip was really unnecessary. Everything lined up, so I felt ok about it. That AC plug is so tight that when I went to pull it out before starting the repair, I momentarily wondered if it was built in, so when I was able to plug it back in firmly and nothing was loose, I felt good about it.

    Matt Burleson - Réponse

    Pour les francophones, il faut pousser le connecteur d’alimentation légèrement vers la gauche (centre du boitier) et non vers le bord afin de pouvoir remettre ce pu…. de circlip : )

    car sinon le clip est impossible a remettre sinon…

    Attention a ce qu’il soit bien en place sous peine de le voir se balader dans le Mac mini et faire courcirtcuit

    pour les plus frileux —> un bout de scotch toilé et c’est réglé !

    Jeremy - Réponse

    il y a en plus une pièce en caoutchou sur le connecteur sur mon Mac mini ;)

    Jeremy - Réponse

    • Pour sortir le bloc d'alimentation du boîtier, saisissez le connecteur de courant, qui fonctionne comme un verrou.

    • Tournez le connecteur de courant de 90 degrés dans le sens inverse des aiguilles d'une montre.

    I have a supplementary rubber parts on the connector.

    How to send you the pictures ?

    Jeremy - Réponse

    • Le verrou de la prise de courant devrait s'insérer dans la rainure juste au-dessus dans le boîtier.

    • Pendant le remontage, assurez-vous que l'alimentation est bien insérée dans la fente où le verrou s'enclenche avec la rainure.

    'During reassembly ensure the power supply is inserted far enough into the case that the latch will engage with the groove.' -- Tip: Flip the case upside down and wiggle the power supply a bit to get it seated properly so the screw hole lines up.

    Brad Bowers - Réponse

    • Retirez la vis T6 de 8 mm fixant le bloc d'alimentation.

    During reassembly, leave this a bit loose so that you can wiggle the AC-in latch into place in step 28

    Sandip Bhattacharya - Réponse

    • Faites glisser l'alimentation hors du Mac Mini, en faisant attention à tous les câbles susceptibles de rester accrochés.

    When re-seating the PSU, be sure to align the little metal tab that points toward of the front of the Mac Mini so that it mates with the receiving socket at the front of the case. If not, the light at the front of the case that glows white when the Mac Mini is in various power states will not illuminate.

    maxim - Réponse

    I am completely unable to remove the power supply. I followed all steps, but at the last, the power supply does not move at all. I can wiggle it a fraction of an inch from side to side, but that’s it. Need help!

    Charles Lindauer - Réponse

    @lmc Did you manage to get it out? For anyone else who has this issue - it seemed to be stuck for me too, but I just needed to use the part that we just unscrewed and put leverage on it while pulling on the end of the power supply with my fingers. Make sure the AC latch is turned all the way to the left so it’s not bumping into the chassis.

    Josh Hyde - Réponse

    I did finally get it out, but it wasn’t easy. It had to be jiggled just the right way.

    Charles Lindauer - Réponse

    To anybody else having the issue, the AC-in header needs to be twisted to the left to be removed. The sides have grooves that they fit into.

    Houston - Réponse

    • Retirez la seule vis T6 de 8 mm fixant la baie du disque.

    • Sortez la baie du disque hors du Mac Mini.

    When re-installing drive tray, note two holes in tray engage two spuds at the far end. I fumbled with this for a minute.

    Jon Scott - Réponse

    • Retirez les quatre (deux de chaque côté) vis T9 de 6,5 mm, fixant le disque dur à la baie du disque.

    Like others, a T8 screw driver worked best for me on the 4 hard drive screws.

    sorinjc - Réponse

    it is t8 not t9. you owe me a TR6 Torx Security bit :D

    giammin - Réponse

    I found the 4 screws quite hard to remove and needed to use an 8mm spanner on the back of my T8 screwdriver to get them loose.

    Reiner Friedel - Réponse

    Screws have loctite residue. I put a tiny drop of fresh blue (semi-permanent) on each screw before reinstalling.

    Jon Scott - Réponse

    Bill Pennock - Réponse

    T9 Torx from recommended barely allowed me to remove these screws. I had to press very strong them into screws, so that pressure and minimal adhesion made it possible to move something.

    Vitalijs Ozornins - Réponse

    afajner - Réponse

    The instructions at the top recommend a T9 but the link plops a TR9 into your basket. In any event, the T8 works better.

    tom - Réponse

    T8 was also good for me. Mini was manufactured in 2016 October.

    soul.tan - Réponse

    Benni Piron - Réponse

    Is this a security screwdriver just like the TR6 Security Screwdriver?

    Shubham Ojha - Réponse

    When i did the re-assembly as I was adding a drive to a pcie only mac, i didnt have any t8 screws (so used standard phllips onces which came with the sata kit but i struggled to make sure the wires were out of the way. I dont know if the configuration for mac minis with drive is slightly different but you need to be careful not to screw down any of the wires (i think for IR sensors).

    Edward Chandler - Réponse

    • Soulevez le disque dur et retirez-le de la baie du disque.

    • Lors du remontage, assurez-vous d'insérer le câble du disque dur à travers la fente dans la baie.

    • Soulevez la nappe et retirez délicatement l'adhésif protecteur noir qui se trouve en dessous et maintient le connecteur du câble SATA sur le disque dur. Enlever l’adhésif est essentiel, car sinon il y a un fort risque d’arracher du connecteur les contacts soudés sur la nappe. La force de rétention des contacts dans leur boîtier est très faible.

    • Extrayez le connecteur du câble SATA du disque dur, en veillant à rester dans l'axe.

    • Retirez délicatement les deux adhésifs carrés noirs (l'un visible sur l'image) des coins du disque dur et collez-les sur votre nouveau disque dur aux mêmes endroits.

    The bottom of the hard drive SATA Connector had a bit of black tape on it holding the Mac SATA connection to the bottom [circuit board side] of the hard drive itself.

    Check to see if yours has this as well before applying too much force removing the SATA connector from the hard drive.

    KevCoStudios - Réponse

    Are there any temperature sensors glued to the HD as in the previous versions of the mini?

    Matias -

    I found the SATA cable itself glued to the drive. Once I pulled the cable up and away from the PCB, I found a piece of black tape (as mentioned by KevCoStudios) holding the connectors together.

    dloftis - Réponse

    This tape is critical. For some reason, apple supplied a very loose fitting SATA connector. Tape is required to keep the HD attached.

    James Billy - Réponse

    %#*@, got this far all ok, but didn't notice the tape and pulled too hard, ripping the metal pins out of the connector! Where can I find a replacement part?

    Sky Willmott - Réponse

    Did the same thing, wondering if you ever found a replacement?

    Alex Boyd -

    I did the same thing. I found a replacement on Amazon using the serial number printed on the underside of the connector. It worked like a charm.

    Anthony Califano -

    This guide is almost perfect aside from the omission of a picture of that well-hidden adhesive. I've seen it on other Apple SATA connectors, but it's been a few months and I didn't think about it today.

    Please someone upload a picture of the adhesive on the PCB side of the drive. I'll gladly do it myself when I next open a 2014 Mac Mini, but I've no idea when I'll get to open another one.

    I also struggled mightily for about 15 minutes before finding the small black tape. Like a jerk, I forgot to take close up pictures while I had it apart :-

    I was probably 5 minutes away from breaking off the SATA connector by prying too hard using a spudger on each edge of the cable.

    If anyone has pictures, hopefully they can upload here to help out others.

    This mac mini was significantly different from previous minis I've worked on, the guide saved me A LOT of time.

    Thanks for the great writeup!

    Daniel Cassel - Réponse

    @rebootninja I bought mine last december the 500GB model and just ordered the tools and a Sandisk SSD Plus, I could send pictures of the tape when i do it myself. Im not sure when. Since i'm living in Maldives, orders from ebay and online takes 3-5 weeks to arrive. However, i shall keep a note of what you have mentioned here. I have read the guide twice now and now i think im quite ready to perform the surgery when the tools arrive :)

    Mohamed Malik - Réponse

    Cable looked to have been glued down with just a spot of RTV (silicone.) Easy enough to peel slowly with spudger. Ordinary RTV is corrosive to electronics so if you add fresh, make sure it's electronic-safe. I also reinforced the black tape on re-assembly with a strip of Kapton tape, and burnished well with spudger.

    Jon Scott - Réponse

    If you still need the images for the sticker.....

    Thanks for the guide.

    Leo Rudolph - Réponse

    In order to avoid any kind of issue to the SATA cable, I suggest to warming the part. A hairdryer could works for the scope.

    Claudio - Réponse

    Tough to see the 2 black stick pads. Noticed them on the old hard drive after I reassembled everything with a 1TB Samsung SSD. Don’t think I need the pads as SSD has no moving parts. Would be good if the author circled the 2 pads on the HD.

    Phatcat - Réponse

    Wer das Klebeband sucht: Es ist auf der verbauten Festplatte - das rechteckige ovale “schwarze Ding” in Abbild 35, das halb über den Sata-Anschluss der Platte geklebt ist.

    Hermann Röttger - Réponse

    I found the tape and removed it, but didn’t notice the tiny screws in the connector and of course pull the cable out of the connector. Ordered a replacement and installed it.

    Leonard Jessup - Réponse

    I’m new to Mac. How do you load the OS on the new drive? Before or after replacement? Using what tools? Thank you.

    David - Réponse

    As others have said, the SATA cable is stuck to the drive with a spot of something sticky. I used a long thin flat metal prying/opening tool (often found in mobile cell phone opening kits), and inserted this between the cable and the PBC, and gentle wiggled it while gently pushing it through. This separated the cable from the drive quite easily. After I attached the cable to the new drive, that spot was still a bit sticky, and was good to stick onto the new drive as well!

    Ken - Réponse


    Tutoriel très clair. Manipulation de difficulté moyenne. Il faut cependant de petits doigts et une bonne vue.

    Merci pour votre aide, travail fait en 45 minutes. tournevis Torx 6 Security en coffret de plus de 100 pièces pour moins de 20€.

    Jacques Lefèvre - Réponse

    I can’t source the Toshiba 1tb sata drive anywhere, can I use any other sata drive?

    Sonni - Réponse

    Any 2.5” drive should work. I would get an SSD, like the Adata SU800 or Crucial MX500.

    maccentric -

    The tear down instructions were great! I just should have paid more attention to the note about the ‘hidden’ black tape.. I missed that! So the SATA connector came apart as predicted in the instructions. So…… Now I get to do it all over again with a replacement cable!

    Roy Pressman - Réponse

    If this model just shipped with the PCIe SSD, does it come with the cable for the 2.5” drive? Is this the same cable for previous models? Upper or lower cable?

    Charlie Nancarrow - Réponse

Pour remonter votre appareil, suivez ces instructions dans l'ordre inverse.

Pour remonter votre appareil, suivez ces instructions dans l'ordre inverse.

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Mac Mini 2012 Ssd Install


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Mac Mini Replace Hard Drive

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